Orto have been there
Tuesday, April 26, 2011 at 12:30PM 
One of the things that sucks about living on the other side of the world from your home town is that you miss some fairly momentous occasions. My regular readers may remember that I missed my sister’s 21st birthday last year; this made me very sad, but it provided a good excuse to splurge on an extravagant meal for two at Tetsuya’s. Then in March I missed my Aunt Sally’s 60th birthday hosted by my parents – the first ever gathering of the extended family from the NZ side in Sydney. And now I have been sent photos (along with rave reviews) from the opening night of my sister’s boyfriend’s new restaurant, Orto Trading Co.
Chris Low (some of you will have come to know him as the Windang King), Anne Cooper and Louise Hunt were the team behind Baffi & Mo cafe in Redfern; Anne and Louise were the co-owners, Chris the chef. They sold up last year and took Chris with them.
Turns out the folks that brought us Baffi & Mo, mustachioed cafe at the vanguard of the Redfern rush, also have green thumbs. Orto translates from Italian as 'kitchen garden' and the new bright and airy space in Surry is decked with sprouting bottles, tin pails of potted herbs and garden tools that hang above the kitchen pass. (Cleo Braithwaite)
When I was in Sydney over Christmas, Chris was mulling over his food philosophy. He told me at the time that he thought our best experiences of food are those that bring back memories. Good, wholesome, home-cooked food is most likely to take us back, and Chris wanted to provide this, but with a modern twist. The emphasis is on communal dining, you are encouraged to order for the table and share as you would around your own table at home. This philosophy is underscored by the décor, a balance of rustic elements and modern chic.
As I was absent, I cannot provide a proper review, nor can my friends and family provide an unbiased one, but after just four night's service Orto have already had coverage in the Sydney Morning Herald, been written up on Urbanspoon, by a popular Sydney blog, and on the Sydney ‘subcultural guide’, Two Thousand. Here’s a sample of what they said:
I kinda had high-level suspicions that Orto Trading Co. in Surry Hills would be good – it's by the people who started Baffi & Mo in Redfern ... Their new operation is so great, though, it may even outblitz their previous project.
Seems that I have stumbled upon a bit of a gem on a rainy Saturday this Easter, and a little quirky it is. ... I can't resist ordering Wellington. Smoked Kingfish Wellington to be precise, with buckwheat pancake, wild rice and tarragon, a side of beurre blanc in a little colourful pot $32.00. The fish is moist within and lightly smoked. Dish of the day, week or year even.
This is the first eatery to get off the ground at the deNode apartment complex, with others under construction. These guys have once again got the lead on a block that will soon be buzzing. Not that they needed a head start.
Oh, and Orto Trading Co. also will be open for lunch for part of the week – so I'm keen to see what the options are like then, too. Not that I have to search hard to find reasons to return to this new favourite.
If that doesn’t convince you, I think the photos speak volumes:
Cider-cured ham with quail egg, pear, crouton and frisee, $13
Quince glazed duck with pancetta, fig, radicchio and pickled muscat grapes, $26 
Stuffed rabbit leg with date, sage, pistachio, madeira and eschalot served with a pork and rabbit terrine, $39
Rhubarb and pomegranate trifle with orange blossom, vanilla bean custard and madeira sponge, $12
Still uncertain? Take a look at the current menu, which my Mum diligently typed out for me so that I could share it with you.
In the four days that Orto has been trading they have been full every night. They don’t even have a phone yet and their website is still under construction, but you can find them at 38 Waterloo St, Surry Hills, 2010; dine@ortotradingco.com.au.
Well, Windang King, I can’t promise you an excursion to Tet’s next time I see you (the bank balance won’t stretch that far) but I can promise to be one of your most loyal and devoted customers when I do find myself back on your side of the world. Until then, good luck... although I doubt you are going to need it.
Vix
The word keeps spreading about Orto Trading Co. Since I posted this on Tuesday several new reviews have appeared online; yourRestaurants, Daily Sydney and Welcome to Andyville all have rave reviews. Best of all is an article by Elizabeth Meryment in today's Sunday Telegraph, which concludes "I, for one, am very glad it has arrived in my neighbourhood." Not bad for their second week of service.
I have also noted that the write up on Urbanspoon was written by Tania of My Kitchen Stories blog, you can see her post complete with photos here.
Vix
STOP PRESS: Orto Trading Co. has just received a rave review in The Sydney Morning Herald's Good Living from none other than Terry Durack, internationally acclaimed food critic – an amazing achievement given that Durack's first visit took place in their opening week and the two follow up visits shortly after that. Congratulations Windang King, I am so glad all your hard work has paid off. I second Rachel's notion, we should recrown you the Sultan of Surry Hills!
Reader Comments (7)
I am biased but it really really really is good! I've been three times so far, and I'm hard pushed to say which meal I enjoyed most. I've had the smoked fish dish twice and I'm not complaining. What really impresses me is to see how the concept that Chris was talking to you about had developed into the bistro sharing thing - and it works. It's different. It's great.
You may be biased, but I don't think you could have eaten there 3 days in a row if you didn't like it. I am jealous, it all sounds so delicious, I want to try! :)
Thanks so much Vix.
I can't wait to share everything with you.
It's such a nice post.
xx
It is sad to have missed your opening, but I am really happy to hear how well everything is going. It sounds like you have been run off your feet, but I am sure all your hard work will pay off. It looks like you have something fantastic going and I can't wait to sample it myself. Xx
Terry Durack was in again last night!
o my!
luckily i didn't serve or i would have royally freaked out!
I finally got to go last Friday night and while I knew it was going to be amazing I was blown away. The setting, the service and the food were all awesome. And I'm not technically family so I'm slightly less biased, but I think the reviews speak for themselves.
We had the cured meat plate, the beef and guiness stew and the duck which is now being served with quince as figs are out of season. I have to say this dish was my favourite. For dessert we had chocolate pudding with the most amazing chestnut icecream. I can't wait to go back and try everything else on the menu too!
I couldn't help taking a couple of snaps which I'll post on your facebook page.
I think the King of Windang is fast becoming the Sultan of Surry Hills
xxx
Ha ha - the Sultan of Surry Hills indeed. Love it!
I'm so jealous but so glad you got to go and that you really enjoyed it. Yeah, that duck does look wonderful in the photos. Can't wait to see yours.
Xx