One of the things that sucks about living on the other side of the world from your home town is that you miss some fairly momentous occasions. My regular readers may remember that I missed my sister’s 21st birthday last year; this made me very sad, but it provided a good excuse to splurge on an extravagant meal for two at Tetsuya’s. Then in March I missed my Aunt Sally’s 60th birthday hosted by my parents – the first ever gathering of the extended family from the NZ side in Sydney. And now I have been sent photos (along with rave reviews) from the opening night of my sister’s boyfriend’s new restaurant, Orto Trading Co.
Chris Low (some of you will have come to know him as the Windang King), Anne Cooper and Louise Hunt were the team behind Baffi & Mo cafe in Redfern; Anne and Louise were the co-owners, Chris the chef. They sold up last year and took Chris with them.
Turns out the folks that brought us Baffi & Mo, mustachioed cafe at the vanguard of the Redfern rush, also have green thumbs. Orto translates from Italian as 'kitchen garden' and the new bright and airy space in Surry is decked with sprouting bottles, tin pails of potted herbs and garden tools that hang above the kitchen pass. (Cleo Braithwaite)
When I was in Sydney over Christmas, Chris was mulling over his food philosophy. He told me at the time that he thought our best experiences of food are those that bring back memories. Good, wholesome, home-cooked food is most likely to take us back, and Chris wanted to provide this, but with a modern twist. The emphasis is on communal dining, you are encouraged to order for the table and share as you would around your own table at home. This philosophy is underscored by the décor, a balance of rustic elements and modern chic.
As I was absent, I cannot provide a proper review, nor can my friends and family provide an unbiased one, but after just four night's service Orto have already had coverage in the Sydney Morning Herald, been written up on Urbanspoon, by a popular Sydney blog, and on the Sydney ‘subcultural guide’, Two Thousand. Here’s a sample of what they said:
I kinda had high-level suspicions that Orto Trading Co. in Surry Hills would be good – it's by the people who started Baffi & Mo in Redfern ... Their new operation is so great, though, it may even outblitz their previous project.
Seems that I have stumbled upon a bit of a gem on a rainy Saturday this Easter, and a little quirky it is. ... I can't resist ordering Wellington. Smoked Kingfish Wellington to be precise, with buckwheat pancake, wild rice and tarragon, a side of beurre blanc in a little colourful pot $32.00. The fish is moist within and lightly smoked. Dish of the day, week or year even.
This is the first eatery to get off the ground at the deNode apartment complex, with others under construction. These guys have once again got the lead on a block that will soon be buzzing. Not that they needed a head start.
Oh, and Orto Trading Co. also will be open for lunch for part of the week – so I'm keen to see what the options are like then, too. Not that I have to search hard to find reasons to return to this new favourite.
If that doesn’t convince you, I think the photos speak volumes:
Cider-cured ham with quail egg, pear, crouton and frisee, $13
Quince glazed duck with pancetta, fig, radicchio and pickled muscat grapes, $26 
Stuffed rabbit leg with date, sage, pistachio, madeira and eschalot served with a pork and rabbit terrine, $39
Rhubarb and pomegranate trifle with orange blossom, vanilla bean custard and madeira sponge, $12
Still uncertain? Take a look at the current menu, which my Mum diligently typed out for me so that I could share it with you.
In the four days that Orto has been trading they have been full every night. They don’t even have a phone yet and their website is still under construction, but you can find them at 38 Waterloo St, Surry Hills, 2010; dine@ortotradingco.com.au.
Well, Windang King, I can’t promise you an excursion to Tet’s next time I see you (the bank balance won’t stretch that far) but I can promise to be one of your most loyal and devoted customers when I do find myself back on your side of the world. Until then, good luck... although I doubt you are going to need it.
Vix