Orto, at last

In April 2011, over two and a half years ago, my sister’s boyfriend, Chris Low, and his business partners, Anne Cooper and Louise Hunt, opened Orto Trading Co. This week I finally got to eat there.

It was top of my list coming home to Australia for the first time in 3 years, and it did not fail to impress. OK, I am biased, but Chris really does know what he is doing in the kitchen. His food is interesting, imaginative and inventive. Chris spoiled us rotten, with oysters as an amuse, 6 starters, 3 mains and 2 desserts, all washed down with 3 expertly chosen bottles of wine.

White anchovy and sobrasada fish fingerMarrowbone, parsley, lemon and garlicCape Grim beef tartare and frites

My favourite of the starters was one that my sister had specially requested. I’m not sure what it was called since it was not on the menu, but it consisted of seared scallops, mushrooms, a salad of apple and cured cuttlefish with a lemon based dressing and dill. It is a great example of Chris’ imaginative flair. I would never have thought to put all these ingredients on the same plate, but all the elements came together really well. The cured cuttlefish and apple salad was the star for me; a contrast of crisp and smooth textures and a medley of salty, sour and fresh flavours.  

Vying for second place in my list of favourite starters was the pork belly san choy baw. Crisp, golden nuggets of salty pork belly were served in witlof leaves with coriander, chilli and soy. The dressing had just the right amount of soy – a difficult balance to strike when you are working with salty meat – and just a little kick from the chilli. The greens brought freshness, counterbalancing the salty flavours and making for a surprisingly light mouthful.

Dad had requested the scotch duck egg with salt cod served with Orto’s piccalilli. I’m not a big fan of traditional scotch eggs, but I really enjoyed the salt cod version. The soft salt cod casing was much lighter than the rich sausage meat that is usually used, much more appropriate for a hot summers’ night.

Another dish well suited to the weather was the aptly named summer gnocchi with heirloom tomato, tapenade, zucchini flower, basil and house made ricotta. The ricotta was soft and delicate, and a light touch with the seasoning and tapenade meant that its flavour really shone. The tomatoes were bursting with flavour; sweet, plump and juicy.

Of the meaty mains, the crispy lamb belly, pickled heirloom carrots, smoked yoghurt, parsnips and wildflower honey was my number one. It was a pity that I was so stuffed by this point that I only managed a few mouthfuls. The smoked sheeps’ milk yoghurt was a fantastic condiment for the lamb and well balanced with the sweet parsnip, both roasted and pureed. It was actually a surprisingly light dish, helped along by the crunchy strips of vegetables and pickled carrots.

Smoked duck breast, confit leg, pickled cherries, treviso, hazelnut and chervil

We could barely manage dessert, but it had to be done. A mouthful of chocolate and tarragon ganache tart, wild pepper strawberries and white balsamic ice cream was plenty for me, but I was glad I tried it. Chocolate and tarragon are, again, two things I wouldn't have thought to pair, but of course it makes perfect sense; rich dark chocolate stands up to and is lifted by the tarragon's bold anise flavour.

The venue is a great space. Despite high ceilings and big windows, it still manages to feel homely and intimate. It has a lovely ambience and even when we were one of few tables left at the end of the night, it still felt atmospheric. 

I was talking with my dad and sister the other day about the disappointment when things which have been built up a lot fail to live up to expectations. This was not one of those occasions.

Comments

[Charlie Brown]

A perfect summary of a fantastic meal! So glad you have finally been able to come to Orto and that it did indeed live up to expectations! Also glad that my request for the scallops was so well recieved...hopefully an indication for Mr Low to put it back on the permanent menu again!!

[Ma]

I suppose I am also biased but having eaten regularly at Orto for last two and a half years I must say I am constantly in awe of Chris Low's creativity with flavours and textures . That's how he has managed to stay in the Good Food Guide , and still get booked out week after week which is some achievement in the fickle world of sydney dining. Great that you could share it with us at last. Let's go back there for breakfast before you head back to Blighty x x