MOUSSAKA A dish common to Turkey, Greece and the Balkans, made with slices of aubergine (eggplant) arranged in layers, alternating with minced (ground) mutton or lamb, onions, and sometimes tomatoes, often with the addition of a thick béchamel sauce. In some recipes, courgettes (zucchini), potatoes or spinach are used instead of aubergine. The dish is baked in the oven.
This definition from Larousse Gastronomique pretty much sums up my recipe for moussaka. If I were sensible, I would accept it as gospel and be done with it. It would certainly save me a lot of typing and you a lot of reading. But sensible I am not and having looked further into the history and origins of the dish I feel the need to share.
The definition refers to Turkey and the Balkans, but in fact the description which follows depicts the Greek preparation. According to Wikipedia, Turkish musakka is not layered, “Instead, it is prepared with sautéed aubergines, green peppers, tomatoes, onions, and minced meat” and eaten with cacik and pilaf. The Bulgarian and Macedonian versions are layered like the Greek, but contain pork and beef rather than lamb and potatoes rather than aubergine. Like most of the recipes in the rest of the Balkan states, they are topped with a savoury custard.
Interestingly, the Greek version as we know it did not come into existence until the early 20th century. In an article in The Atlantic, Aglaia Kremezi writes of her surprise at making this discovery,
I was convinced that the current version of béchamel-topped moussaka was invented during the golden years of the Ottoman Empire, probably in the spectacular kitchens of the Topkapi Palace, in Istanbul. Maybe a creative French-educated cook enriched the traditional Middle Eastern dish with the classic French sauce, I thought. But further investigation revealed that before the early 20th Century there was no moussaka as we know it today.
Kremezi was correct in guessing that a classically trained chef was responsible for popularising the modern version of the dish, but it was not in the romantic context she had envisaged. It was the recipes published in a 1920s cookbook written by Nicholas Tselemente’s, a Greek chef who had spent much time working abroad, which defined the version we know today.
He revised—in my opinion, destroyed—many Greek recipes, trying to conform them to classic French cuisine. He believed that European cooking had its origins directly in ancient Greece. Under Turkish rule, Greek cooking had become more eastern, he thought, and this he was determined to correct.
Moussaka with yoghurt-based toppingKremezi’s article ends with a link to her own recipe, based on her mother’s, which she says is probably more like it was “in the old days”. Like the Turkish version, hers includes green peppers and her topping is made with yoghurt and olive oil, a variation which intrigued me.
This inspired me to experiment with my sauce. I tried various versions, including an egg and yoghurt based version by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. It was nice for a lighter option, but if I'm honest, I still prefer my moussaka swimming in creamy béchamel. So I decided to replace some of the milk in my béchamel with yoghurt and I found that it gave it a rich, slightly tangy flavour. I always make it this way now.
I also experimented with kefalotyri cheese, which is what most recipes purporting to be traditional tend to recommend, though, as the above discussion suggests, this is debatable. I prefer feta with either gruyere or parmesan, which ever I have in the fridge. I like the sharp, salty flavour you get from the feta.
For an even heartier meal replace one of the aubergines with a layer of parboiled, peeled and sliced potatoes. Serve with a leafy mixed salad.
Serves 4 - 6 as a main course.
Moussaka with potatoes and aubergine 'swimming in béchamel'
Ingredients
For the béchamel topping
Method
Preheat the oven to 200C.
Slice the aubergine lengthways approximately 8mm thick. Lay out the slices on a clean surface and sprinkle generously with salt. Leave for 10-15 minutes, pat dry with paper towel, turn over and repeat the process.
Meanwhile, in a large saucepan heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over a low heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat for approximately 6-8 minutes until pale and translucent. Turn the heat up and add the lamb mince. Stir continuously until the mince is browned all over. Add the red wine and leave to bubble and reduce for a few minutes.
Add all of the tomatoes, spices and herbs, except for the parsley, bring to the boil and then turn the heat down low and simmer for at least an hour or until most of the excess moisture from the tomatoes has evaporated and you are left with a thick ragù.
While the ragù is reducing, brush the aubergine slices on each side with the remaining olive oil and put in the oven for approximately 10 minutes or until browned and tender. Turn the oven down to 180C.
Arrange a layer of aubergine in a large casserole dish and spread with a layer of ragù. Repeat until you have 3 or 4 layers, finishing with aubergine.
For the béchamel
Melt the butter over a low heat. Add the flour and cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly, to form a roux.
Remove from heat and slowly pour in the warm milk, whisking vigorously until all the roux has been incorporated. Return to heat and slowly whisk in the yoghurt. Continue whisking until you have a thick and creamy white sauce. Add the cheeses, stir until they have melted and season with nutmeg, salt and pepper. If you find your béchamel is too thick at this stage, add a little more milk or yoghurt.
Pour the topping over the final layer of aubergine and bake the moussaka for 35-40 minutes, until golden on top. Leave to stand for 5 to 10 minutes before cutting into large squares; this will help it retain its shape (slightly) when served.
